The In-Between Space

A slightly rebellious summer dinner: three vegan courses for evenings that refuse to end

A slightly rebellious summer dinner

Summer food often gets reduced to salads and restraint. I'm not sure why.

Long evenings deserve proper meals. The kind where people sit outside a little too long, open another bottle, and somehow find room for dessert despite claiming they couldn't possibly eat another thing half an hour earlier.

This menu came together for one of those evenings. Three courses that lean into the season without becoming precious about it. Cold pea soup that tastes like June. A smoky tomato risotto that refuses to apologise for being comforting. A vanilla panna cotta with blueberry reduction because summer berries deserve better than being thrown into a smoothie.

None of it is complicated and most of the work can be done the day before, which means less time standing over the stove and more time sitting with friends. Preferably somewhere the sun doesn't seem to understand that it's supposed to set.

The lowdown

Serves: 4

Active prep time: Around 2 hours, with most of the work done the day before

Cooking time: About 45 minutes on the day

Chilling time: At least 4 hours for the panna cotta, preferably overnight

Difficulty: Relaxed dinner party

Equipment needed:

Best served: Outside, with a decent bottle of wine and no plans for the evening.

Starter: Cold pea, apple, and mint soup with horseradish oil

Cold soup doesn't get enough credit. It should. Sweet peas, sharp apple, fresh mint and just enough horseradish oil to wake everything up.

Cold pea, apple, and mint soup with horseradish oil

Ingredients

For the soup:

For the horseradish oil:

Method

  1. Sweat the chopped shallot in a little oil for 3–4 minutes.
  2. Add the stock and peas and simmer for 3 minutes.
  3. Add the chopped apple and mint.
  4. Blend until completely smooth.
  5. Stir in the oat cream and lemon juice.
  6. Season generously and chill thoroughly.
  7. Mix the horseradish into the olive oil and allow it to sit for at least 30 minutes.

To serve

Main course: Smoked tomato risotto with roasted cherry tomatoes, crispy mushrooms, basil oil, and lemon pangrattato

Risotto has an undeserved reputation for being fussy. It isn't. It just asks you to slow down and pay attention for half an hour, which isn't exactly the worst thing in the world.

The smoky tomato base carries plenty of savoury depth, while the roasted tomatoes, crisp oyster mushrooms and lemon pangrattato stop it from becoming too serious.

Smoked tomato risotto with roasted cherry tomatoes, crispy mushrooms, basil oil, and lemon pangrattato

Ingredients

For the roasted tomatoes:

For the basil oil:

For the lemon pangrattato:

For the crispy mushrooms:

For the risotto:

Method

  1. Prepare the roasted tomatoes (see "Notes")
  1. Prepare the basil oil (see "Notes")
  1. Prepare the lemon pangrattato (see "Notes")
  1. Prepare the crispy mushrooms (see "Notes")
  1. Prepare the risotto

To serve

Dessert: Vanilla panna cotta with blueberry reduction

Summer berries deserve better than being hidden inside breakfast oats.

This is simple, clean and just sweet enough. A splash of bourbon in the blueberry reduction doesn't hurt either.

Vanilla panna cotta with blueberry reduction

Ingredients

For the panna cotta:

For the blueberry reduction:

Method

  1. Prepare the panna cotta (see "Notes")
  1. Prepare the blueberry reduction (see "Notes")

To serve

Notes

Do yourself a favour and prepare these in advance:

Then on the day itself, all that's left is cooking the risotto, crisping the mushrooms, warming the tomatoes, and putting everything together.

Summer evenings are too short to spend them washing up.

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